Max Korchmar established his manufacturing business in
1917. Korchmar cases and products were originally sold in the automotive,
medical
and travel industries. As brand development evolved, Korchmar addressed the
needs of markets such as the U.S. government and military, airline industry,
and major corporations including Coopers & Lybrand, PricewaterhouseCoopers,
Proctor & Gamble, and Seiko.
From its inception, the Korchmar brand has stood for durability and quality
at a fair price. Today, as a leading provider of innovative solutions and
value in leather business cases and accessories, the Korchmar tradition
continues. In fact, Consumer Magazine has rated our business cases as "Best
Buy" during consecutive years.
As the business has passed through three generations, the family has never
wavered from Max Korchmar founding vision. Through ups and downs and
twists and turns, the family has persevered and Korchmar track record has
remained steadfast.
business philosophy for over 91 years
has been a commitment to 100% customer satisfaction by designing and
manufacturing the highest quality business cases and travel goods.
If we do not meet your expectations, please let us know, because we
believe in developing lasting relationships with our customers.
At Korchmar we choose only the finest Texas Steer hides and craft
them into exceptional styles of luggage and briefcases of our OWN
DESIGN. All Korchmar creations are hand crafted by Korchmar in their
own factory; NEVER outsourced and NEVER produced in China.
Here at Korchmar you will find excellent quality products, fair
pricing, quick shipping and a return policy few companies can meet.
You can be assured that we monitor customer satisfaction, by
manufacturer, on a daily basis.
Korchmar has been in business serving professionals around the world
since 1917, we have been rated "1A" in customer service, ease of
ordering, products, pricing and shipping. We continue to work hard
to maintain those same high standards at Korchmar.com and always
welcome your feedback.
Whether you purchase your Korchmar product on line direct or from
one of our over 300 retail partners I can assure you of complete
customer satisfaction, supported by four generations of Korchmars
and our passion for excellence. Please feel free to contact me
anytime with input and suggestions.
recommend the following steps and products in caring for your leather goods.
Just remember: leather is a unique, natural product and unlike most things its
appearance can actually improve with age. Leather is also one of the most
durable and long lasting investments money can buy. Proper care will help
protect that investment.
Korchmar.com disclaims any responsibility for damage to your leather goods when
using these recommendations and/or products since we have no control over their
proper or improper application
Animal Oils as Leather Conditioners
A SUMMARY OF INFORMATION PROVIDED BY INDEPENDENT LEATHER EXPERTS
Regarding the rumor that animal oil deteriorates leather: Independent leather
experts state that if leather is properly cared for (periodically cleaned, dried
and conditioned) this will not occur. Furthermore, leather professionals
maintain that leather which is neglected or which is conditioned while dirty or
soaking wet will be damaged more by dirt, debris, bacteria, mold mildew,
moisture. It is not the animal oil, but poor care which is the culprit. A
conditioner which contains animal oil is not harmful to leather in and of
itself. Poor or negligent leather care is harmful to leather. Ultimately,
problems of mold or rancidity are the result of lack of proper leather care.
Every piece of leather in existence started out as living skin on an animal,
stuffed with oil and fat as well as a large amount of water. Hides begin loaded
with grease and fat; they are degreased prior to the tanning process, after
which oils are restored to the hides through "fat liquoring" or hot-stuffing.
Oil must be added to the hide to restore suppleness. Animal oils have always
been used in fat-liquoring and have a tremendous historical track record. In the
past, sperm whale oil was used primarily. Tanneries commonly use such oils as:
animal oil, fish oil, vegetable oil, and some mineral oil. The use of oil in
after-market conditioners is absolutely necessary for lubrication. Beeswax in a
product provides a water-repellent barrier.
You can over oil your leather though and this is why all professional leather
people recommend LIGHT coats of conditioner (applying more than one if
necessary).
Recommended Leather Care Products (for smooth leather): Cleaners:
Recommend using Lexol PH Balanced Leather Cleaner
Standard Conditioners:
For normal conditions I regularly use Lexol Conditioner or Fiebings Leather
Renew. Both use emulsified oils that do not leave a sticky residue behind. Lexol
sometimes leaves a filmy coating after drying that is usually easily buffed off
with a soft cloth. You can also rub on a second light coat and wipe off
immediately to remove the haze. Both products help replace the necessary oils
into the leather
Heavy use Conditioners
For day in and day out use of your leather in all kinds of weather: Montana
Pitch-Blend Leather Dressing is a product that I have personally used to protect
and help keep dry such important items as my logging boots (wet feet are
miserable!). As mentioned above in the animal oil section there are some folks
who claim these type items will damage your leather, but I have used them
extensively and have had no problems with them. But each to his own and there
are many other fine products.
Polishes
If you want a higher gloss shine use either a clear paste polish found in most
stores or try Fiebings Tan Kote. Apply following the manufacturers directions.
Use Leather Cleaner and Conditioner
If you want to protect and prolong the life of your leathers - you must clean
and condition them. Excessive dryness can cause leather to crack and too much
moisture can cause it to swell, mildew, and then stiffen as it dries out. A good
leather cleaning system will clean your leather gently. Leather also requires
conditioning to replace the natural lubricants lost during normal use. Just as
your own skin dries out when exposed to the elements, so will your leather. If
you do not apply a moisturizer, you are significantly shortening the life of
your leather. A good conditioner will help stop rain, spills or anything wet
from staining your leather. Cleaning followed by conditioning is the route to
keep leather in good condition.
Some Basic Don
We do not recommend using silicon products or most aerosol gunk sprays, because
they can impair the leather ability to breathe by clogging the pores. DO NOT
over clean or condition as excess oil and wax attract dirt and dust particles
that actually cut the microscopic fibers that make your leather durable. NEVER
use harsh household chemicals to clean leather and normally avoid leather
preparations that contain alcohol, as it will dry leather out. After using
saddle soap do not forget to wash the excess soap solution off with a clean damp
cloth. Avoid drenching the leather with water.
Clean your smooth leather on a regular basis (how often you clean/condition
depends on how much and under what conditions you use your leather) using a good
saddle soap and follow the directions. If the item is muddy scrape off as much
as possible and let it dry; after the remaining mud has dried completely brush
it of using a medium stiff natural bristle brush. If your leather is really
dusty also brush it off before using saddle soap. While the leather is still
damp (NOT soaking wet) from cleaning, apply a thin coat of conditioner, the
leather pores are open and this will help the conditioner to penetrate. Let
the item hang in a warm dry place, but NOT near a heat source or in the sun,
and after about an hour wipe off any excess conditioner. Wait 24 hours and apply
another coat of light conditioner. Wait another 24 hours if you are going to
apply a heavy, water proofing type conditioner (such as beeswax based). Always
follow the manufacturers directions.
Putting a shine on your Leather
Polishing is done for special occasions when you want a more glossy finish on
your leather. There are a couple things to be wary of when purchasing a
polishing agent. Some products contain coloring factors that will brush off on
things you come in contact with. Some products also have a tendency to clog the
pores in leather or dry leather out. Just as with cleaning, be sure to test out
the product on a small area and when ready, buff to a shine.
Your New Leather
Your newly purchased leather has been treated in the above "light treatment"
fashion. If you get stains you do notwant just improve the
aged look), remove the offending stain as soon you notice them, the longer they
go untreated the better the chance is that they will leave a permanent stain. If
you can not remove the mark with a few firm rubs using a leather cleaner, do not
keep rubbing as you may damage the leather. It is important that you use a
quality cleaner and conditioner to remove stains. Do not use the types of solvent
or cleaner you normally find under the kitchen sink: they could do a lot of
damage to your leather. No matter what technique you use always test it first
someplace on the leather that can not be noticed. A gum eraser will remove a
variety of marks from leather. Grease marks can sometimes be removed by rubbing
the spot gently with sawdust moistened with benzene (lighter fluid). Most types
of glue can be removed with a ball of dried rubber cement. Again, be careful not
to rub hard or the surface may be damaged. Ink is the most difficult stain to
remove, because it is much like a dye itself, when attempting to remove the ink
you may remove the leathers original dye. You also want to avoid placing sticky
back name tags or badges on your leather. They will almost always permanently
damage the leather. If you are unable to remove a stain on leather yourself,
your best bet is to send it to a "professional leather cleaner".
Really Wet Leather
Ok, so you get caught in a downpour and your leather goods are sopping wet:
* Remove any heavy items from the pockets of leather
* If possible take a dry towel and soak up as much as you can - do not rub - just
blot. If a towel is not handy shake as much wetness from the leather as possible.
* To help keep your case in shape stuff them with paper towels and or un-inked
newsprint (you can usually buy end rolls for pretty cheap from the local
newspaper). Change the paper frequently until it quits absorbing water and then
remove it to allow the item to dry from the inside and outside.
* Let your leather air dry naturally, avoiding direct heat or sunlight.
* When your leather is nearly dry, apply a little light conditioner. Follow that
up with a full conditioning treatment as listed above when the leather is
totally dry.
* Leather with a nap, such as suede, should be brushed after drying with a soft
natural bristle brush or terry cloth.
Professional Cleaning
Professional cleaning should only be done when absolutely necessary and again
only by a leather specialist. You shouldn not use a regular dry cleaner unless
they can prove to you that they know what they are doing and that they work with
leather regularly. Most dry cleaners know a lot more about fabrics than leather.
When possible, let the cleaner know the source of the stain so they know what to
do when processing. For instance, antifreeze can cause your leather to burn when
cleaned. Cleaning chemicals may also weaken cement bonds. Because a slight
variation in color or texture may occur, even when done by a qualified
professional, always clean matching items at the same time so that the color
tones will continue to match. A small amount of shrinkage may occur, but will
stretch again with wear. Natural marks and wrinkles may also become more
apparent after cleaning.
Leather With A Nap (suede, etc.)
Every once in a while brush your suede with a SOFT natural bristle brush Any
spills or stains should be treated as fast as possible with dry corn starch -
First blot, not rub, up any liquid still on the surface- then apply a generous
amount of corn starch. Let it sit overnight then brush off. To get rid of dried
stains that the corn starch did not remove, try a gum eraser - Work the spot back
and forth in several directions. Be careful not to work the area so hard that
the nap is totally removed.
Storing Leather
To avoid drying out, keep your leather out of direct lighting, overexposure to
sunlight, or near a heat source. Leather should always be stored in a
well-ventilated, warm, dry area. Excess dryness can cause your leather to crack
and too much moisture can cause mildew. Do not seal your leather in plastic, as
you want to avoid anything that will impair the leather ability to breathe
Cover with a light fabric to protect from dust. Never use wire hangers for
storing your leather clothing.
Discount Luggage Briefcases
Backpacks Laptop Computer Bag Outlet.
Max Korchmar established his manufacturing business in
1917. Korchmar cases and products were originally sold in the automotive,
medical
and travel industries. As brand development evolved, Korchmar addressed the
needs of markets such as the U.S. government and military, airline industry,
and major corporations including Coopers & Lybrand, PricewaterhouseCoopers,
Proctor & Gamble, and Seiko.
your expectations, please let us know, because we
believe in developing lasting relationships with our customers.
Korchmar has been in business serving professionals around the world
since 1917, we have been rated "1A" in customer service, ease of
ordering, products, pricing and shipping. We continue to work hard
to maintain those same high standards at Korchmar.com and always
welcome your feedback. 
recommendations and/or products since we have no control over their
proper or improper application
Regarding the rumor that animal oil deteriorates leather: Independent leather
experts state that if leather is properly cared for (periodically cleaned, dried
and conditioned) this will not occur. Furthermore, leather professionals
maintain that leather which is neglected or which is conditioned while dirty or
soaking wet will be damaged more by dirt, debris, bacteria, mold mildew,
moisture. It is not the animal oil, but poor care which is the culprit. A
conditioner which contains animal oil is not harmful to leather in and of
itself. Poor or negligent leather care is harmful to leather. Ultimately,
problems of mold or rancidity are the result of lack of proper leather care.
Oil must be added to the hide to restore suppleness. Animal oils have always
been used in fat-liquoring and have a tremendous historical track record. In the
past, sperm whale oil was used primarily. Tanneries commonly use such oils as:
animal oil, fish oil, vegetable oil, and some mineral oil. The use of oil in
after-market conditioners is absolutely necessary for lubrication. Beeswax in a
product provides a water-repellent barrier.
